From a winning moment at the Belmont Stakes to designing sculptural, show-stopping headpieces, Ellie Jian’s millinery journey is a reflection of how passion, artistry, and personal connection can transform a simple accessory into wearable art.
What first drew you to millinery?
My journey into millinery began during a fashion contest at the Belmont Stakes in New York, where I won “Most Elegant Woman.” The experience sparked a curiosity about headwear that slowly grew into a deep passion. During quarantine, I enrolled in millinery courses at FIT, and everything changed. That first spark still lives in every client’s reaction when they try on their custom headpiece. Seeing people light up when they find the hat that feels like “them” keeps me going every day.
How would you describe your design aesthetic?
Chic, sculptural, and wearable art. My architectural background helps me design with balance and proportion in mind - each hat is shaped to complement the client’s personality, face, height, and even body shape. My logo reflects that same refined and intentional approach: clean, modern, and quietly bold.
What inspires your creative ideas for your new headpieces?
Inspiration often begins through conversation - I love getting to know my clients, their personality, style, and the story behind the event. Sometimes it’s a dress pattern, a season, or even a painting that sparks an idea. But most often, inspiration comes once I start working with the materials. Touching sinamay, layering trims, manipulating fabric - it’s a very tactile process. I rarely sketch first; instead, I let the materials and the client’s energy guide the shape, color, and direction of the design.
What materials are you most excited to experiment with?
I’m currently excited about working with sinamay and parasisal to create sculptural, architectural bases, along with wire and crinoline for movement, structure, and dramatic shapes. I love adding hand-painted details and unique trims, often including personal touches like a client’s initials or something meaningful to them. It’s that balance of form, texture, and personal storytelling that makes each piece truly one of a kind.
Can you walk us through how you bring a hat to life?
It always begins with a conversation - getting to know who the client is, what they’re wearing, the event, and how they want to feel. That dialogue helps me understand their personality and comfort level, which shapes everything that follows. I gather materials and start experimenting — it’s a process that’s both hands-on and intuitive. I block, sculpt, and layer directly on the form, adjusting proportions and trims as the design evolves. The client is at the heart of every decision, and once everything feels balanced and true to them, the final touches fall into place. That’s when it becomes a piece of wearable art made just for them.
Any tips to help hat lovers choose and wear their hats?
Start with something that reflects you—whether that’s bold, romantic, or understated. Pay attention to proportion: your hairstyle, face shape, and outfit should all feel in harmony with the hat. And don’t overthink it - if you feel good in it, you’ll look good in it. Confidence is the best accessory.
What one tool in your studio could you never live without?
When it comes to structured hats, especially men’s styles, I couldn’t work without my hat blocks - they’re essential for shaping and giving the hat its form. But for fabric-based pieces and fascinators, my go-to tools are wire, a good wire cutter, and a pair of sharp scissors. Each set of tools plays a key role depending on the type of hat I’m creating.
Looking back, what has been one of your biggest challenges in millinery?
One of the biggest challenges was believing I could turn this passion into a real business. Millinery is such a niche world, and it takes persistence to build your audience and help people understand the beauty and value of custom headwear. But that challenge taught me the importance of staying authentic and trusting the slow, meaningful growth that comes with creating thoughtful, one-of-a-kind pieces.
Outside the workroom, what passions or pastimes fuel your creativity?
Inspiration often strikes when I’m not actively looking for it. Going to fashion shows, visiting art museums, or even watching movies - all spark ideas. I often find myself imagining how a look could be completed with the perfect headpiece. Whether it’s the movement in a garment, the mood of a film scene, or the colors in a painting, these moments feed directly into my creative process and help me dream up new designs.
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