From biology to bows, Isobel Robinson blends timeless elegance with modern technique—creating tailored headwear that enhances natural beauty, shaped by hand in her Yorkshire home studio.
How did your journey into millinery begin?
My passion for millinery was sparked after attending a hat-making experience day. When I arrived at the studio I was in awe of the array of hat blocks, rolls of fabrics and boxes of trims that adorned the workshop shelves. I loved the connection this traditional craft held with the past, yet the freedom it allowed to experiment with new materials and create contemporary designs. I went home and immediately ordered my first blocks - a saucer and small button block - and have never looked back.
How would you define your design style?
I love classic tailoring and vintage fashion. My designs tend to be quite minimalist, focusing more on enhancing the clients natural beauty than distracting from it with masses of trimmings. Elegance over extravagance is probably a fitting motto for my work!
Where do you find your creative inspiration?
As a teen I wasn't into fashion trends at all and would be the last person you would have expected to become a fashion designer. I studied biology and anthropology, hoping to work in conservation. Then I met my husband and his style is so unique that I'd never seen anyone dress quite like that before. He loves vintage fashion - mainly 30s and 40s styles, or influenced by the new romantics and 80s rock scene - but always with a hat on a jaunty angle. He opened my eyes to vintage styling, inspiring me to wear - and later design - not what was in fashion, but what enhanced your own style. I've brought that inspiration to my millinery work to create timeless designs with a contemporary edge.
Do you have a favourite material to work with?
My favourite material to work with is felt, simply because it's much kinder on my hands than sinamay! I use wool felts for cost and ethical reasons, and love the freedom that it gives to shape and sculpt in any direction I can imagine.
What’s your process for bringing a hat idea to life?
When design inspiration hits, I often prefer to move straight to making rather than meticulous planning and sketching. I'm sure it's a personal failing, but I need to feel the movement of the fabric between my fingers before I can visualise the position and shape of the trims.
What’s one item of equipment in your studio you couldn’t live without?
The most important tool in my studio would have to be my steamer. As someone working from a home studio with limited storage, it allows me the creative freedom to alter blocked shapes and make freeform headpieces to really optimise my design offering. The Hat Academy course on 'Sculpting Sinamay' was a real eye-opener on using the steam to make my trimmings more fluid and give them a softer, more feminine edge, and I've used that technique in my signature bow headpieces.
What has been a challenge you have faced in millinery?
Probably the biggest challenge I face is that I sell my work almost exclusively online, so there's little opportunity for face-to-face appointments. Being able to offer my designs worldwide whilst giving the client that bespoke experience is something I've worked hard on to achieve. I offer complimentary fabric swatches to ensure the best colour match to their outfit, and a choice of fastenings to best blend with their hair. I've also learned to stick to perching hat styles which fit most head sizes, as there's nothing worse than working with the wrong head measurements!
What are some of your passions outside of millinery?
Aside from millinery, I'm a jewellery designer specialising in sterling silver. My business encompasses both disciplines and I love the variety of work that involves. I'm also a keen seamstress, making clothes for my daughters and myself when I have the time.
Do you have a saying that guides your creative life?
I love the quote ''What if you fall? Oh, but my darling, what if you fly?''.
Setting up your own business takes a great leap of faith and self-belief, and as artisans it can be challenging as we are often our own worst critics. There will be falls along the way - design fails, customers who are difficult to please, lean months when you wonder where everyone has gone - but when you get that email to thank you for making someone's day, knowing you've made them feel their best self, it takes away all the self-doubt and encourages you to keep on going until you can fly.
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